Take the time to visit perhaps the most influential and controversial example of Niemeyer’s genius, the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi. While Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer’s contributions to mid-century modernism can be seen across the country, notably at the Supreme Court, the Presidential Palace and the National Congress, some of his earliest and most interesting work is here in Belo Horizonte.
Since its completion in 1943, the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi has been the symbol of Pampulha and a defining landmark of Belo Horizonte. However, it was not accepted as such for some time. Scandalized by the unconventional design, church officials took 14 years to agree to have it consecrated. Visit today and you will see the extent to which this once shocking building has now been embraced not only by locals, but also by people from all over the world.
Niemeyer was inspired by the words of the French poet Paul Claudel, who wrote, “A church is God’s hangar on Earth.” See how the church’s structure resembles a series of waves rising against the embankment of the lagoon. The lagoon is itself part of the broader architectural complex of Pampulha, designed by Niemeyer in 1940 to be a garden city within the mining capital of Belo Horizonte.
Approach on foot to see the building at its best, following the popular jogging path that follows the shoreline of Lagoa da Pampulha. Consider the astonishing level of innovation that went into designing the building’s unmistakable flowing exterior. The façade features blue-and-white murals by Portinari depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi. Inside the images continue in ocher, set off by the wooden arched ceilings.
Visit the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi in the late afternoon to see its murals beautifully illuminated with colored lights as night falls. Note that the church doors are open only during the day, but its exterior is a lovely sight at any time.
