Gijang is a gun (county) located on the coast between Ulsan and Haeundae-gu in northern Busan province. Here, the East Sea of Korea is rich in crayfish, seaweed and anchovies. You can try all this bounty from the sea at the local markets and coastal restaurants. But be sure to check out all the other attractions.
Make a beeline for Ilgwang Beach to swim in its shallow bay in summer. The seemingly endless sandy beach is lined with beach condos and family-friendly hotels, so you can easily base yourself here.
Head inland to admire the artisan pottery in the Toam Ceramic Art Park. From the bus stop at Mooyang in the Gijang-eup (town), walk uphill a bit until you are greeted by the sight of a few thousand clay figures. The earless figures with gaping mouths were created by Ta-Won Seo, the founder of a pottery park, after learning he had cancer. Enter his legacy art space in the forest to see the next generations at work.
Next, visit the Buddhist temple of Jangansa at the base of Bulkwang-san. The temple dates back to at least the 7th century but has been rebuilt several times since. Head back to the coast for the picturesque Haedong Yonggungsa temple, which hugs a coastal cliff and is decorated with cairns in the shape of spires.
Also don’t miss the clifftop café Gijang Waveon either. Designed by Heesoo Kwak and IDMM Architects in 2016, it is a modern marvel. Have a drink and admire this multileveled concrete space with its pointy seating areas. The rooftop staircase doubles as an observation deck, to take in those calming ocean views.
Now you have had a taste of what Gijang-gun is all about, it’s time to sample the local food as well. At the traditional Gijang Markets, hand-pick a huge lobster or king crabs and ask for the crayfish to be cooked on the spot. Order sides of spicy pickles and seaweed (miyeok) pancakes and you are in for a feast.
The journey from the port city of Busan to Gijang takes about an hour. Take the subway to Haeundae station and then hop on a bus to the Gijang Market (ask for “Kijang Sikdang”) from the street outside exit 7.