Immerse yourself in baroque splendor in one of Lucca’s most elegant sights, Palazzo Pfanner, a 17th-century palace famous for its frescoes, walled garden and classical music concerts.The palace was originally built for the wealthy Moriconi family in the 1660s. Since then it has changed hands several times, coming into the possession of the Pfanner family in 1856. They are still the owners of the property.
Start your visit in the large reception hall decorated with early 18th-century frescoes. Wander through the rooms leading off the hall to see furniture and furnishings from different centuries. They include a canopy bed that Prince Frederick of Denmark and Norway slept in during a brief stay in 1692 and a dining room with table settings from the 19th century.
Discover how medicine was practiced in the late 19th century by visiting the palazzo’s permanent exhibition of surgical equipment and medical manuscripts. They belonged to Pietro Pfanner, a surgeon and Lucca’s mayor between 1920 and 1922. See amputation utensils, early blood pressure equipment and anatomical samples extracted from patients who lived in the 19th century.The palazzo’s most popular attraction is the formal Italian garden. Spend some time among the Mediterranean plants, pools, statues, terraces and lawns. Sit by the octagonal fountain pond surrounded by statues of gods and goddesses from ancient Roman and Greek mythology. Breathe in the scent of lemons from dozens of lemon trees.
Such is the garden’s beauty that it has attracted the attention of filmmakers, most notably the director Jane Campion. The grounds were a setting for The Portrait of a Lady, the 1996 film starring Nicole Kidman and John Malkovich.Lovers of classical musical concerts will want to book a ticket for one of the Sounds of Lucca chamber music concerts, which take place here every September and October.
Palazzo Pfanner is located within easy walking distance of both Piazza San Frediano and Via Fillungo. The palace and its garden are open from March to mid-November and have separate entrance fees. Save money by purchasing a ticket for both.
